Bahrain? Huh.

An Egyptian friend of mine who has lived here for years told me that when her husband announced they were moving to Bahrain she asked, “So… where exactly is Bahrain?” It’s not an unusual response. Most people know it’s in the Middle East… maybe. But that’s about as far as folks get. So let me help you out.

Bahrain is an island in the Persian (Arabian) Gulf. It’s to the east of Saudi Arabia, southwest of Iran, and northwest of Qatar, which is northwest of United Arab Emirates where Dubai is and where parts of “Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol” and "Fast and Furious 7" were filmed. Clear now?

It has a population over 1.2 million, however half of those are non-nationals. It’s listed as the 23rd smallest country in the world encompassing just 780 square kilometers (301 square miles). It measures approximately 31 miles long and just 11 miles wide. Essentially it is one-third the size of Rhode Island. Yup, it’s small.

It’s made up of a bunch of islands, with the main and largest island known as Bahrain Island. Researching on Wikipedia (only the best will do) I was surprised to learn that they claim over 80 islands, including many artificial (“reclaimed”) islands. Love those little facts.

When I first saw the shape of Bahrain it reminded me of photos I’d seen of Martha Graham in her Lamentation dance. You decide.

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Bahrain has an extensive history, dating back to the Bronze Age (4000 BC) when it was home to the Dilmun civilization. It is believed to be one of the oldest civilizations in the Middle East and artifacts from the Dilmun era are still being excavated.

It has had a litany of rulers including Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Portugal (for 80 years in the 1500s), then back to Persia, Oman, and eventually Great Britain in 1860. During the second World War, Bahrain declared their support for Great Britain and conducted a fund drive and was able to raise enough money to purchase 10 fighter planes for the RAF. But it wasn’t until August of 1971, that Bahrain was finally able to declare its independence.

Economically, it’s lucky that it has oil and natural gas, because less than 3% of its land is farmable. As much as 92% of it is desert and I can speak personally that dust storms are a regular annoyance and health hazard. Temperatures range from the low 60s in “winter” up to 130+ in the high heat of summer.

It might not be the hot-spot to visit in the Gulf, but as a place to live and raise young kids, we're really happy.  There are days we wake up and feel like we're living at a country club, and there are other days we are reminded we're living in a dust-worn desert.  Either way, it's always sunny in Bahrain!

Beaches, Beaches, Beaches in Bahrain

Being an island, and having 100 miles of coastline, you might think that Bahrain is just one big beach. This is not quite true. However, there are useable beaches and we are slowly seeking them out. One of our favorites remains the public beach at Budaiya Beach Park/Al Budaiya Park (coordinates: 26.208530, 50.446891).  It's not pristine, but it's close enough. And considering we have three non-swimmers currently, its warm shallow calm waters are ideal for us. It's also rarely packed. Even on weekends, when families come out in droves, there is still plenty of space.

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During a recent weekend down south, we happened to take a wrong turn and came across Al Jazayer/Jazayir beach.  It was right on the coast and we could see small white caps and the water was exceptionally blue. We did a quick reconnaissance from the car to confirm that it appeared to be a public beach and made a mental note to return another day.

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A week later, "another day" arrived.  Since it was about half an hour from home, we thoroughly packed the car to the gills with swim gear, floaties, beach toys, towels and some more towels, clothes and some more clothes, sunhats, sunscreen, travel potty, and enough food and water to keep everyone alive for several days.  We drove down, parked in the public lot, and dragged all of our gear and kids to the water.

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The first thing I noticed was that the water was filled with lots of happy splashers.

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The second thing I noticed was that there was no gear anywhere on the beach. There were a few public pergola-style concrete structures, there was a sun-beaten playground, there was a sun-beaten convenience store and there was one family huddled in the shade of the shop with some stuff.

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But no piles of towels or coolers or people sitting in the sun. Where was all the stuff? I felt a bit like a hobo family with all of our gear. But we set everything down in a pile and got everybody ready to swim.

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With floaties strapped on, we waddled down to the water's edge and found ourselves standing on a very pebbly beach. Not at all comfortable. We tried to go in a little farther but it just wasn't going to happen with three kids yelling to be picked up. So after a quick conference, we waddled back to our pile of gear, hefted everything back up again and shuffled back to the car having decided to instead go to our favorite beach in Budaiya (and made a mental note to get everyone water shoes).

Just to ensure this wasn't a completely wasted trip, we took advantage of the ice cream trucks milling about the parking lot. My husband, however, did not inquire as to the size he was purchasing. He walked back to the car and I asked, "Where are the ice creams?" He said, "They'll deliver them here." I was instantly worried. And it turns out, rightly so. The ice cream truck lumbered up to us and started handing out cups of ice cream holding five scoops each! It was more ice cream than my kids had seen in their entire lives.  They were thrilled!

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We finished our sugar implosion, dribbled it all over the car for posterity, hastily wiped as much sugary goo off the children and piled ourselves back in. We drove all the way home and then another two miles back to our favorite beach.

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So, it was a misadventure with a good ending. We will continue in our beach explorations, however next time we might come wearing water shoes and (somehow) carrying less gear and maybe we’ll even share ONE ice cream.  Stay tuned!

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